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J. G. KUHN.

WOVEN EMBROIDERY PABRIG.

(No Model.)

Patented Feb. 23, 1886.

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NiTED STATES ATENT OFFICE.

WOVEN EMBROIDERY FABRIC.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 336,861, dated February 23, 1886.

Application filed July 21, 1885. Serial No. 172,184.

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, JEAN GEORGES KUHN, of Degersheim, in the canton of St. Gall, Switzerland, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Fabrics for Embroideries, &c., (for which provisional protection was granted by the English patent office on November 3, 1884, the provisional specification having been filed September 23, 1884, and the patent, which has since been granted, bearing said date of filing, and being numbered 12,721 of 1884,) of which improvement the following is such a full, clear, concise, and exact description as will enable others skilled in the art to which nay-invention appertains to make and use the same, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, forming part of this specification.

The frilling of the garnitures of embroidered and similar fabrics has heretofore been done chiefly by passing a thread through the material and gathering the same upon and along such thread, which is often very tedious and troublesome. Finished goods have also had a thread passed through them in running stitches similar to those made by hand, and when such thread has been put into the goods they have been sold in a straight or smooth state, so that the purchaser might afterward frill them on the thread in the best manner permissible; but in each case the thread, of necessity, pierces the goods and passes through andlaps over the material the distance of the length of the stitchesfirst on one side of the fabric and then on the other'-and when such fabric is gathered so as to produce the frilling, it loops and folds along the thread, thus causing the material to become much thicker and have an uneven and sometimes bungling appearance. v

The object of my invention is to make a fabric for embroidery purposes which will be adapted to permit of the frilling of the garnitures with less trouble and in a more perfect manner than has heretofore been attained.

My invention, briefly stated, may be said to consist in the production of such a fabric made to contain and inclose a suitable cord or string by having the texture thereof woven so as to come on opposite sides of and around the cord, the texture being united immediately preceding and succeeding the space occupied by the (No model.) Patented in England September 23, 1884, No. 12,721.

cord, so that the cord is practically free from and yet inclosed within the fabric, which may be gathered as desired by drawing the cord and adjusting the material upon it.

In the drawings, Figure 1 represents an embroidered fabric having the cord inclosed Within the same adjacent to the inner edge of the embroidery. The fabric is shown in this figure as being smooth or straight. Fig. 2 represents the embroidered fabric when the garnitures are frilled at intervals along the cord.

In the drawings, a represents the linen or fabric, and b the embroidery thereon, while 0 represents a cord which is inclosed within and extends through the fabric in the direction of its length. 1 v

In practice I prefer to weave one or more cords into the fabric during the course of its manufacturebefore it is embroidered, and while doing so to so regulate the distance between the cord so woven into the goods as that they will each, when the fabric is embroidered or jacent to the inner margin of the embroidered surface. The distance from the edge of the fabric to be embroidered through which the cord is made to pass would of course be governed according to the Width of the embroidery,'the requirements of the goods, and the demands of the trade. The strings or cords may be woven into an entire piece of linen or other fabric, in which case the fabric would be prepared to be cut into strips of the required width and have their margins embroidered in any desired pattern.

In making the fabric to inclose the cord or string, the texture may beseparated and woven on opposite sides of the cord, being made to branch from a point just preceding the cord and brought again together and united immediately succeeding the space taken up by the cord or string. This leaves the cord practically free from the fabric, and yet it is inclosed and held firmly within the same. \Vhen thefabric is completed and embroidered, the frilling may be done at leisure by simply drawing'the cord or by drawi ng the goods along on such cord and adjusting the gathered portions in any desired distances apart. By having the cord inclosed within the fabric in the manner above explained the frilling may be done much more out into strips, be brought into a position ad easily and perfectly than is possible with a thread passed through the material in the ordinary way, because when the cord is inclosed within the fabric the material is not pierced, and the adjustment of the fabric is much more easily and readily made. Moreover, the fabric is free from the folding or looping of the material which is consequent upon stitching through the material in the ordinary way, as the texture around the cord is practically a part of the fabric, and the frilling will have the effect of tightening or compressing such part of the texture, thus producing an even handsome appearance in the frills.

The draw cords or strings are woven into the fabrics or into the strips into which the fabrics may be out before being embroidered at some distances from the edges, so as to afford a proper margin on one side of the cord in each strip for the embroidery-pattern which is to be produced thereon, while sufficient room is left on the other side of the cord to permit the gathers of the shirred or puckered strip to be properly disposed and the strip to be attached to the garment which it is to ornament. Moreover, as the cord is snugly inclosed in the longitudinal pocket woven for it in the fabric the latter will bind on the cord with sufficient friction to maintain the gathers in place, while still permitting the fabric or the cord to be moved, the one relatively to the other, in gathering or shirring without difficulty.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

As an improved manufacture, a woven embroidery fabric having at some distance from its edges a small woven pocket and a draw cord or string snugly fitting in said pocket, whereby the embroidered strip may be gathered, when desired, and the gathers frictionally held in place by said cord or string, substantially as set forth.

J. G. KUH'N.

W'itnesses:

1VIARTIN HEFII, GEORG ROHNEB. 

